Guides
Practical tips for the aquarium hobbyist
3 min read
How to photograph your fish for a great listing
Good photos sell listings faster. Here's how to get clean shots even with a phone.
Use natural light. Position your tank near a window during daylight. Avoid flash — it causes glare on the glass and stresses the fish.
Shoot from the side. Position yourself at tank level, not above. Side-on shots show the fish's shape and colour most accurately.
Use burst mode. Fish move fast. Hold the shutter button and pick the sharpest frame.
Show the full animal. Crop tightly enough that the fish fills the frame, but leave a little breathing room. Don't cut off fins or tails.
Add a second photo for context. Show the tank or a hand holding a bag if you're selling a breeding group. Buyers like seeing scale.
4 min read
Pricing your livestock fairly
Pricing is the single biggest factor in how quickly your listing sells. Too high and it sits; too low and buyers wonder what's wrong.
Check what's already listed. Search AquaTrader for the same species and see what others are asking. Price yourself competitively.
Factor in your costs. If you've been running a breeding setup for months, your time and electricity have value. You don't have to give things away.
Common-to-you doesn't mean common to everyone. A fish you've been breeding for years might be rare in your city. Check local store prices as a ceiling.
Price for negotiation. Many buyers will offer slightly below asking. Listing 10–15% above your minimum means you can accept an offer and still feel good about the price.
"Free to good home" works for culls. If you have surplus juvenile fish or plants you just want out, say so. You'll get a lot of responses quickly.
5 min read
Safe packaging for shipping live fish
Shipping live animals is risky but manageable with the right approach. Follow these steps to minimize loss.
Fast the fish 24–48 hours before shipping. This reduces waste in the bag, which keeps ammonia low in transit.
Use breather bags for short shipments, sealed bags for overnight. Breather bags allow oxygen exchange passively. Sealed bags hold a large oxygen-to-water ratio.
Double-bag. Always. One bag failure shouldn't mean a lost fish.
Fill ⅓ water, ⅔ oxygen. Use pure oxygen from a welding supply if you're shipping regularly. Air works for short trips but oxygen is better.
Use insulated boxes. A styrofoam box inside a cardboard box holds temperature. Add a heat pack in cold weather or a cold pack in summer — don't let either touch the bag directly.
Ship Monday–Wednesday. Avoid shipping Thursday or Friday — packages can sit in a depot over the weekend.
Agree on DOA policy in writing before shipping. A common standard: seller is responsible if the buyer opens the box within 2 hours of delivery and fish are dead, with a photo as proof.
3 min read
Buying shrimp from a fellow hobbyist — what to ask
Shrimp are sensitive to water chemistry. Buying from a hobbyist is great for genetics and price — but you need to know a few things before you commit.
Ask for their water parameters. pH, GH, KH, and TDS are the critical ones for neocaridina and caridina shrimp. Significant differences from your tank will cause stress on introduction.
Ask how long they've been breeding the colony. A established colony of 2+ years is more likely to be healthy and adapted to their local water than a recently purchased batch.
Ask about feeding and temperature. Knowing the seller's routine helps you match it on arrival and transition slowly.
Drip acclimate, always. Shrimp cannot handle sudden chemistry changes. Drip acclimate over at least 60–90 minutes, matching the seller's parameters as closely as possible.
Quarantine. Even from a trusted seller, keep new shrimp separate for 2–4 weeks before adding to your display tank.